If any chef embodies the rise of Mexico City’s food scene over the past 15 years, it’s Elena Reygadas, who has risen to global fame since opening Rosetta in the city’s Roma neighborhood in 2010.
Rosetta instantly captured everything that fine Mexican cuisine is: appealing, creative, and using the finest seasonal ingredients.
Read more: Kobe Bryant’s Staples Center locker could fetch $1.5 million at auction
Having studied English literature and trained in French cuisine in New York and Italian cuisine in London, Reygadas opened a world-class bakery, La Panaderia, before opening acclaimed restaurants across London, including Lardo, Café Nin and Bella Aurora. Rosetta was listed in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2022, so it should have come as no surprise to anyone when the rankings’ organization named Reygadas the World’s Best Female Chef for 2023.
Reygadas spoke with Penta about the honor, the scholarship program, and the recipe she’s most looking forward to.
Advertisement – Scroll to continue
Penta: How did you find out that you were named the best female chef in the world?
Elena Reygadas: I received a call from The World’s 50 Best team informing me that I had been selected as the best talent by over 1,000 of my peers and industry experts. [2023’s] The best female chef in the world. This is something I never expected and I am so grateful and delighted.
How have things changed since then? Has the title had any impact on the way you approach your work?
Advertisement – Scroll to continue
This is a recognition for the entire team that I have worked with for many years, whose enthusiasm was reflected in our daily work and inspired us to do things better every day.
Why did you decide to create a scholarship program for the next generation of female chefs in Mexico?
As a mother and a chef, I realize that there is still a lot to be done when it comes to gender inequality, not only in our industry but in society at large. This is one of the reasons why I launched the Elena Reygadas Scholarship in 2021, an effort to promote and strengthen female leadership in the industry. I feel a great responsibility to advocate for the next generation of young women.
Advertisement – Scroll to continue
Female chefs are clearly making waves in Mexico right now – why do you think that is and what does it mean for the country?
I’m very excited to see that female chefs and their work are being recognized. However, I believe the challenges remain great. On the one hand, throughout our history, women have been at the forefront of kitchens and many food industries. On the other hand, certain culinary circles are dominated by men. This is a terrible contradiction. I believe that things have to change and the various important roles that women have historically played in Mexican gastronomy should be fully recognized.
Read more: Bezos Earth Fund to boost sustainable protein market
Advertisement – Scroll to continue
There’s been a lot of discussion about how so-called “digital nomads” are affecting communities like Rosetta. What are your thoughts on this issue? Are you worried about the loss of local character, or do you see some change as a good thing?
I think the most noticeable change in our neighborhood happened because of the pandemic. Paradoxically, the pandemic brought a lot of people, many of them foreigners. And they weren’t just tourists, they lived here, so the energy changed. It also brought tensions. Things are never black or white. The pandemic made us use public spaces. People really lived the city on the streets. This is a good thing, because it’s proven to make the neighborhood safer. More restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, bars started opening. … Mexican culture has always been very social, and now you can see it by the amount of life on the streets.
What’s the latest recipe you’ve developed and are looking forward to?
Advertisement – Scroll to continue
Melipona and zizirt honey jelly served with vanilla and beurre noisette ice cream. Also known as brown butter, beurre noisette creates a rich nectar that infuses this dish with roasted hazelnut notes. So delicious.
7. Thanks to the popularity of Mexico City’s food scene, there’s been a resurgence of interest in Latin American cuisine around the world. Do you have any tips for home cooks to take their cooking to the next level with a Mexican twist?
No matter where you live in the world, pay attention to local, seasonal ingredients, break away from the “rules” you’ve learned and the homogenization of your thinking, and let your creativity flow.
.What’s next for you?
In these complex times we live in, keep working, keep learning, keep discovering new materials and keep driving positive change.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
